So my question is: can i relearn it with my custom SCT tune without returning to stock? (OBD) MISFIRE MONITOR NEUTRAL PROFILE LEARNING CAPABILITIES. THEN 'MISFIRE MONITOR NEUTRAL PROFILE CORRECTION'. To stock and then do the relearn.i didnt have my tuner with my but idk. Lol, we just put a SCT x4 'the more expensive one for the deletes', on a 2011 F350 that had a failed EGT probe.shuts truck right down. Delete pipe, x4, new air filter, truck has a ton of life suddenly, miles went up 3-4mpg generally, power is way up, hard to control it when trying to baby it around.
So i gave up on trying to get my 18 Manifold tune to pass with 02 and 02 heater so i swapped my intake manifold, injectors, intake, tune to stock and i got a load of engine light codes. 2 of them were just because i needed to do a crank relearn but the others seem a bit more serious and it seems like my stock tune file is messed up:P0630 VIN not programmed or incompatible ECM/PCM.U0422 Invalid Data received from body control module.I've already contacted Lund's Support, but I'm impatient so i was wondering if anyone has every ran into an issue when reflashing the stock tune file. I searched and i could not find anything on this forum, only found on a couple F150s saying it was wrong tire size or some bs but i havent even driven the thing more than 10ft forward and back into garage so how can it know sense gearing. No sense in driving for drive cycles with codes, while it drives fine it fails me immediately on any smog test with engine light on. So i gave up on trying to get my 18 Manifold tune to pass with 02 and 02 heater so i swapped my intake manifold, injectors, intake, tune to stock and i got a load of engine light codes. 2 of them were just because i needed to do a crank relearn but the others seem a bit more serious and it seems like my stock tune file is messed up:P0630 VIN not programmed or incompatible ECM/PCM.U0422 Invalid Data received from body control module.I've already contacted Lund's Support, but I'm impatient so i was wondering if anyone has every ran into an issue when reflashing the stock tune file. I searched and i could not find anything on this forum, only found on a couple F150s saying it was wrong tire size or some bs but i havent even driven the thing more than 10ft forward and back into garage so how can it know sense gearing.
No sense in driving for drive cycles with codes, while it drives fine it fails me immediately on any smog test with engine light on. Click to expand.So I’m just gonna answer my own question, it had to do with me setting the diff to be 3.55 after I tuned and nothing to do with tire size. When I went back to stock tune file I’m assuming the computer is looking for 3.73 gears for a PP and I have 3.55 set. With the stock tune file already loaded to car, I set the diff to be 3.73, cleared all trouble codes, and immediately reloaded the stock tune file again just in case. Really sucks to have to do this because it’s cutting power when it senses the gearing is off, but it does fix the trouble codes. I guess it’s not a big deal unless your on a stock tune, obviously my lund tune allowed for gear changes without these CELs.As for the 18 gt manifold issue and me swapping back to stock:Drove 10 miles and my 02 02 heater codes cleared if anyone cares, seems like the 18 manifold tune can not clear 02 02h to be ready. With 18 mani I drove 450 miles doing drive cycles so it’s obvious.
Switching back temporarily for emissions is the only way, something in Lund tune will not let it pass emissions. 'Jackstand Hero'Suntek Ultra PPF, Opticoat Pro+, Formula One Stratos tint, GT350 Steering Wheel, Lund Flex Fuel / E85R Tuned, 2018 Ported Intake Manifold w/ Lockouts, ARH Catless Headers, Krona Catback, CP-E Icebox CAI, Velossatech Big Mouth, Reische 170 thermostat, UPR 5030-98 Catch Can, MGW Race Spec Low-Profile, BG Synchroshift II Transmission/Differential, Bilstein B6HD, BMR SP083, BMR SM760, BMR CB762, BMR CB005, BMR TB048H, Forgestar F14's 19X10, Firestone Firehawk Indy 500's 285/35 squared. Click to expand.In Houston area two reds fail me and from what i read most of texas is the same. DMV states that any vehicles built after 2001 can't have any more than two reds.
I've gone to inspectors a few times and its been a fail with those two (02 & 02H). If your the original owner you may be able to get a waiver but i am not, not sure of details on that.Also to add to this, my gearing is pulling power. I'm crossing my fingers but i think it will trigger a misfire code. Trying to save the fuel & misfire learning drive cycle for last(from a stop to 65mph then no brakes till at 40mph). Wish i had the stock 3.73 at moment because stock tune can't handle having a different gear. So i gave up on trying to get my 18 Manifold tune to pass with 02 and 02 heater so i swapped my intake manifold, injectors, intake, tune to stock and i got a load of engine light codes.
2 of them were just because i needed to do a crank relearn but the others seem a bit more serious and it seems like my stock tune file is messed up:P0630 VIN not programmed or incompatible ECM/PCM.U0422 Invalid Data received from body control module.I've already contacted Lund's Support, but I'm impatient so i was wondering if anyone has every ran into an issue when reflashing the stock tune file. I searched and i could not find anything on this forum, only found on a couple F150s saying it was wrong tire size or some bs but i havent even driven the thing more than 10ft forward and back into garage so how can it know sense gearing. No sense in driving for drive cycles with codes, while it drives fine it fails me immediately on any smog test with engine light on. Click to expand.My issue concerning this was fixed via what i said in 2nd post fyi. Rear end gearing selection is now my enemy.
The stock tune wasn't from lund i meant just the vin.stk file that the NGauge downloads from pcm. Did not touch cables but they were disconnected for a little less than 2 hours, ill start doing that for future so thanks for that info. My main issue is just gearing at moment on a stock tune file. I may try through Ngauge again now that CELs are gone, but it was not happy when flashing from 18 mani tune with my gearing still set to 3.55.Also Alex from lund just gave me new revision tune (rev 5 for me) to try if for some reason this doesn't work out but all my mods are off my car so i can't try it now. My next step to temporarily fix gearing will be just to adjust my tire size using Ngauge to hopefully fool the computer into thinking the gearing is right without tripping codes. If my gearing matched my pcm i would have no problems currently.
My issue concerning this was fixed via what i said in 2nd post fyi. Rear end gearing selection is now my enemy. The stock tune wasn't from lund i meant just the vin.stk file that the NGauge downloads from pcm. Did not touch cables but they were disconnected for a little less than 2 hours, ill start doing that for future so thanks for that info. My main issue is just gearing at moment on a stock tune file. I may try through Ngauge again now that CELs are gone, but it was not happy when flashing from 18 mani tune with my gearing still set to 3.55.Also Alex from lund just gave me new revision tune (rev 5 for me) to try if for some reason this doesn't work out but all my mods are off my car so i can't try it now. My next step to temporarily fix gearing will be just to adjust my tire size using Ngauge to hopefully fool the computer into thinking the gearing is right without tripping codes.
If my gearing matched my pcm i would have no problems currently. 'Jackstand Hero'Suntek Ultra PPF, Opticoat Pro+, Formula One Stratos tint, GT350 Steering Wheel, Lund Flex Fuel / E85R Tuned, 2018 Ported Intake Manifold w/ Lockouts, ARH Catless Headers, Krona Catback, CP-E Icebox CAI, Velossatech Big Mouth, Reische 170 thermostat, UPR 5030-98 Catch Can, MGW Race Spec Low-Profile, BG Synchroshift II Transmission/Differential, Bilstein B6HD, BMR SP083, BMR SM760, BMR CB762, BMR CB005, BMR TB048H, Forgestar F14's 19X10, Firestone Firehawk Indy 500's 285/35 squared. 'Jackstand Hero'Suntek Ultra PPF, Opticoat Pro+, Formula One Stratos tint, GT350 Steering Wheel, Lund Flex Fuel / E85R Tuned, 2018 Ported Intake Manifold w/ Lockouts, ARH Catless Headers, Krona Catback, CP-E Icebox CAI, Velossatech Big Mouth, Reische 170 thermostat, UPR 5030-98 Catch Can, MGW Race Spec Low-Profile, BG Synchroshift II Transmission/Differential, Bilstein B6HD, BMR SP083, BMR SM760, BMR CB762, BMR CB005, BMR TB048H, Forgestar F14's 19X10, Firestone Firehawk Indy 500's 285/35 squared.
Need some help guys. Just had my stock clutch and flywheel replaced at the dealership at 27,000 miles. My car for engine mods only has a JLT intake, Lethal Performance catless midpipes, and a Lund tune.
I have had those three things done since the car had 5000 miles and never once had any issue. I also had the AC compressor and a few vacuum lines replaced at the same time as the clutch.
I got the car back on Thursday and drove 100 miles home with no issue. But I took it easy on it, and didn't ever go above 4500 rpm. On Friday my friends and I decided to head to the canyons. It's about 60 miles to get where we were gonna start. Didn't go above 4500rpm heading there and had no issue.As soon as we started going up the canyons, I went above 5000 and the check engine light started flashing.
I pulled over and ran the code and came up with P0300, cylinder misfire. Didn't specify which cylinder. Thought maybe a fluke, so let it sit for 10 min, reset the code and took off again. Made it about 3 miles and again, as soon as I started going above 5k rpm, it came up flashing again. Ran it again and this time came up with P0300 and P0304, misfire on cylinder 4.
So disconnected the battery, let it sit for 20 minutes to clear out any left over power, cleared the code and drove it home taking it easy on the highway with no issues on the way back.My friend is a service advisor and I called him and he found this TSB. It doesn't have the GT350's listed, but has the exact issue I'm having. Guessing maybe our cars aren't listed because they are so new.Has anyone else replaced their clutch and flywheel and had a similar issue? The second time I got the code, I disconnected the battery to see if it would reset and relearn, and then my friend sent me this pic and it states doing that won't work. I went through the NGauge to see if there was a setting where I could reset the KAM.
I couldn't find it. I hope to find a way to fix this myself without taking it in, because I know if I do, as soon as they hook it up to the computers, it'll see my tune and flag my car. It has to be something they did, because before this past month it has been with them, I've had no issues in 27000 miles and I drive my car hard as shit.My understanding is that when dropping the trans to replace the clutch and flywheel, that the crank can be slightly rotated throwing off the timing. It used to be that it could be relearned by disconnecting the battery, but now that doesn't work and it has to be connected to the IDS system at the dealership.
Not sure on this, but that's how I read and have understood it.Also, I'm thinking about swapping my spark plugs for some new ones. Anyone have any recommendations for some that won't break the bank or require a new tune? And this car only takes 8 I'm assuming right? My 2016 Scatpack Charger I have for my daily has 16 spark plugs.Thanks in advance for any help. Hopefully this can help out some others too that are doing the same services.It has to be something they did, because before this past month it has been with them, I've had no issues in 27000 miles and I drive my car hard as shit.My understanding is that when dropping the trans to replace the clutch and flywheel, that the crank can be slightly rotated throwing off the timing. It used to be that it could be relearned by disconnecting the battery, but now that doesn't work and it has to be connected to the IDS system at the dealership. Not sure on this, but that's how I read and have understood it.
Click to expand.I agree it might have to do with the clutch replacement, but I doubt the crank rotation would play any part in messing up timing. If the crank rotates, so do the cams, etc. As long as they didn't pull the timing chain/belt (don't know which this car has). The only way I could see crank rotation playing a role is if there is a minimum/maximum weight mark that should be lined up with the corresponding marks on the flywheel/clutch. I know my WRX had a max (or min, can't remember) mark on the clutch and flywheel that needed to be opposed (180 degrees) for balance.If it is misfire, is that diagnosed by the knock sensor?
If so, something loose could be misinterpreted by the knock sensor as knock - maybe a loose bolt, etc. Click to expand.Hey Tat.glad you got things worked out quickly. One thought though on that final sentence of your statement above.it is not reasonable to expect the dealer to account for your aftermarket tune when they perform maintenance work on your car.
Being a noobie to cars like this I have read every word of Ford documentation that came with my car and warranties.they are replete with warnings that Ford is not responsible for issues caused by our mod choices.It sounds to me like the dealer did a proper part replacement and your aftermarket tune required an extra step that caught you unaware. Thanks for sharing with the community. Hey Tat.glad you got things worked out quickly. One thought though on that final sentence of your statement above.it is not reasonable to expect the dealer to account for your aftermarket tune when they perform maintenance work on your car. Being a noobie to cars like this I have read every word of Ford documentation that came with my car and warranties.they are replete with warnings that Ford is not responsible for issues caused by our mod choices.It sounds to me like the dealer did a proper part replacement and your aftermarket tune required an extra step that caught you unaware.
Thanks for sharing with the community. I'm glad you got a quick resolution and that it wasn't that difficult to do the re-learn. Also glad to know it is required if replacing the flywheel - I wouldn't have known where to start looking if I had the same issue. After MENTION=9456Tommy V/MENTION suggestions and google, it looks like a pretty standard problem. But like I said, I would have had no idea.Always glad to learn - especially from others rather than first hand!Do you think it is possible to do the re-learn with an OBD-II scan tool or Forscan?
Or do you need a tuning device/Ford specific diagnostic equipment? I'm glad you got a quick resolution and that it wasn't that difficult to do the re-learn.
Also glad to know it is required if replacing the flywheel - I wouldn't have known where to start looking if I had the same issue. After MENTION=9456Tommy V/MENTION suggestions and google, it looks like a pretty standard problem.
But like I said, I would have had no idea.Always glad to learn - especially from others rather than first hand!Do you think it is possible to do the re-learn with an OBD-II scan tool or Forscan? Or do you need a tuning device/Ford specific diagnostic equipment? P0300 and P0306Got in the car this morning and noticed a check engine light. Turned it on and everything seemed normal, no weird noises or rough idle. Brought it up to the dealership anyways, throwing a P0300 and P0306, Random Misfire is what I was told and Ford is requesting a Compression Test. Didn't want to start a new thread on this so I just revived this one.
Anyone's car thrown these codes before? If so what was the Culprit / Fix? I have no mods and the original flywheel / Clutch assembly with about 24k Miles on them. Hoping this isn't going to be an engine replacement:(. Got in the car this morning and noticed a check engine light. Turned it on and everything seemed normal, no weird noises or rough idle. Brought it up to the dealership anyways, throwing a P0300 and P0306, Random Misfire is what I was told and Ford is requesting a Compression Test.
Didn't want to start a new thread on this so I just revived this one. Anyone's car thrown these codes before?
If so what was the Culprit / Fix? I have no mods and the original flywheel / Clutch assembly with about 24k Miles on them. Hoping this isn't going to be an engine replacement:(.
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